Category: Indonesia

Posted on

Terima Kasih Indonesia

Welcome back folks,

Well, the time has flown by, and the first month is basically wrapped up.  I have been thrust into the adventures of solo traveling, and am off to some new lands. The time in Indonesia was great, but you get 30 days on a standard visa, and I’m ready to roll forward.

The last few days in Indo were good examples of how traveling and vacationing are not really the same thing. I had a bit of a downward turn in mental space, starting with the destruction of my phone on Gili T. It was my source of music, maps/gps, and my camera among other things.  I was eager to replace it.  I did have another in Vancouver, so hastily I asked my good friend Mike to fedex it to Ubud, where I would be at that time.  Sadly, in my haste, I sent it to an address that didn’t exist, and, despite fedex’s assurance, it got trapped in customs.  Doh’, two wrongs don’t make a right!  Well, since these things are so cheap, I might as well just go buy a few more, cripes.   A few days later, I would suck it up, and buy a new Samsung A5 to add to my growing collection, and would be reunited with modern technology.

This spiraled my brain a bit into negative land, and was timed with Julie and Co. hitting the road. Luckily I met up with some friends that I had met on Gili T, and sulked a bit, but greatly enjoyed their company for my last couple evenings in Ubud. They also will be heading on a similar travel path as myself, so hopefully more entries featuring them later.

Next up, my first bout of intestinal difficulties. It’s bound to happen. You spend months here in Asia, well, you are gunna spend your share of time on the toilet.  I hunkered down, back in Legian for a couple days, waiting to feel better, and also figuring out what to do next.  I had a scare, as one evening I had a fever and some solid aches.  Dengue fever was hitting Gili T, and a few friends I’d seen there had come down with the horrible disease.  Thankfully, it was not in my fate for now, and I did manage to recover, albeit, my appetite is not so strong.

I managed to take in a last stunning sunset on Bali, but was more than ready to go somewhere new.  That would be Thailand. I decided a 3 day, 3 night diving trip was needed, so I made my way to Khao Lak, passing through Singapore airport along the way.  It felt great to get off to a new destination, and hopefully a Thai massage can boost my spirits.

Peace out.

Posted on

Anniversaries….

Time. It streams in what seems forward to our human perception, a steady march into the future.  We humans have a hard time detaching the meaning of our lives from time. How old we are? How long have we known somebody? Has it really been that long?  I should be married by now! How much money should I make at 30?  It seems to be tightly integrated into how we exist.  The natural cycle of the earth’s rotation about the sun drives us to mark things by the year, in what is really an arbitrary excuse to revisit some meaningful event.

Unfortunately, this means marking sad events as well as happy ones.  For me, this may make January a challenging month for a few years.  January 2014 took my young friend and neighbor Vincent Keating at the young age of 26, and my Father on the 31st in what would be a day that changed the game for me forever.   My mother also celebrated her birthday on the 15th of January, and passed away just two months after my father.

To commemorate these events as we spin into the new year, I, as you all know, have found my way to the other side of the world.  Does it change anything? Do I really feel different?  Not really. Time heals all wounds, and we ain’t quite there yet.  However, I do have the luxury of taking it in stride with some beautiful friends, old and new, and in what most people would consider paradise.

We found our way to Ubud, a quaint little village in central Bali, most known for the book/movie Eat, Pray, Love. It has become quite a mecca for both legit and wannabe yogi’s, trying desperately to find some peace of mind, and maybe find some meaning in the continuing cycles around the sun.

For me, I had been here almost 4 years ago on what was a very different tour through the paradise of Bali. Not much had changed. Just a few more shops selling expensive clothes to stretch and sweat in.  The local vibe was a nice change from Kuta.  Just the odd yell of “taxi!”, instead of “Valium!”.

Julie had registered for a yoga retreat, and I was looking forward to taking in a class or two. We had traveled with our new family Chehab, Lucie and Nicolas and settled in.  The next morning we decided to take in the Mount Batur volcano trek. You leave Ubud at 2 am to get the volcano and hike up to see sunrise. As a little twist, we decided to rent bikes, and drive ourselves there, a bit adventurous for those that have seen Bali roads :).  I sadly was burned out from partying, could not sleep that night at all, and had done this trip 4 years ago, so I bailed to sleep and regain some sanity.  The others had a fabulous time, albeit a few bumps along the way.

Over the next couple days, Julie would finish up her retreat, and also her vacation would come to a close.  Coincidentally, our other 3 friends were all leaving to make the journey home on the same day.  We had a good bye, and off she went to find the skies and eventually Vancouver, after a very long flight.

I can’t say enough about how great a travel partner she was. Always considered in everything she does, well tempered, and also out going and up for whatever adventure presents itself. Thanks so much for sharing the journey Julie, it will feel strange without you for a while!

Thats that, up next the trials and tribulations of bad decisions and life on the road….

Posted on

Full Circle

Hey all,

When we last left you, we were headed back to the Kuta/Legian beach area of Bali to do some last minute surfing.  It was sad to say bye to Gili T. but we hoped on a fast boat, and enjoyed a rip on the ocean with the wind in our faces as we made our way to Bali.  A sweaty, crammed Bemo ride after, and we had found our way to our hotel, perhaps more in the Kuta area than last time.

Our patience was a bit fried, with the heat and travel. The noise also was rough. Gili T has no motorized vehicles, and it’s a magical concept. Back in the busy streets, the noise was very mentally disruptive.

This first day back we chilled, and then met up with our friends from Gili, Lucie, Nicolas, and Chehab for dinner.  We had a nice quiet evening, but I was still tired of the booze from my big outing, so turned in quite early.

The next day, we hit the beach, and the surf boards again.  Julie was again, looking like her skills were ramping up, and managed to drop a bit more skillfully into a few waves.  I took this time to move my body around, and took a 7 km barefoot run on the beach. Exercise keeps my head clear of demons, so it felt good to get it done.

That evening we headed to the beast, club/restaurant in Kuta, Sky Garden.  Kuta is basically a bit of tourist hell, and Sky Garden is the belly of the beast.  Every three buildings you have a surf shop, a massage place, and a restaurant. In between you have guys offering viagra, cialis, weed, mushrooms, valium etc. I felt like if one more person offered me stuff I was gunna stab my ears out with hot knives!

But, a night out in Kuta is a quintessential thing to do, so we did.  It actually was a fun time, the massive 4 story club has many different rooms of music, and we found some really solid deep house.  Too many drinks later, I made my way back my room.  Now the late night street dwellers stopped pushing drugs, and started pushing girls. Every block my hand was grabbed, asking if I want a girl, and finally as I reached my hotel, a tranny hooker ran up, grabbed my junk, and wouldn’t let it go for about 30 seconds. I laughed, and kindly asked her to remove herself from my body, and finally managed to wiggle myself free.  A strange experience I dare say.

I slept off the booze, and the next day we headed to the hopefully more peaceful town of Ubud. Julie had queued up a yoga retreat here, I planned on a few classes, so here we will round out her leg of the trip in this little town in central Bali!

Till then.  Transport? Cialis boss?  Valium boss?

Posted on

White Beach Paradise

Hello friends,

After our brief stopover we successfully made our trip to Gili Trawangan, better known as Gili T. The largest of three islands off the NW corner of Lombok, Gili T is known as a backpacker haven, and for a lively party scene.  We were seeking a bit of this, as well as some chilling out on the breathtaking beaches, and fluorescent blue waters.  I was also seeking to do my advanced PADI course, and had heard great things about the shops and the dives on Gili T.

Our home for the next 6 days would be the fantastic hostel, Gili La Boheme.  A bit off the main strip, this place was perfect. A large space, with many chill areas for lounging on bean bag chairs, a shared kitchen with free coffee, and pancakes ready to be cooked all day, we settled right in.  To top it off, next door was a great yoga studio buried in beautiful island scenery.

The first couple days, we settled in, and tried out a local dive shop, doing 2 fun dives. The dives were great, and we were treated to many turtles!  We also made some friends at the hostel, Chehab from Egypt, and Nicolas and Lucie from France.  We shared a mind expanding experience on our second night, indulging in a local delicacy on Gili T. I will leave it to you to figure that one out, but we had a fun giggly time together, and formed the beginning of some solid friendships.

On Gili T. time just melts away. There are no motorized vehicles, and the locals are super chilled out.  Everything is in walking distance, and most people are in great spirits. I did sign up for my diving course, and enjoyed 5 adventure dives. They were fantastic, and Julie came along for the night dive, and for a wreck dive.

When not in the water, we enjoyed the yoga studio offerings, and it really felt like a perfect place to be.  The evening of my last dive, two divemaster students had finished their courses, so the diving crew were eager to party it up. I had been taking it easy for a few days while I completed the course, but this evening would let me unwind. And unwind I did.  Let’s just say I got a bit loser drunk, woke up next to a stranger, after having fallen into a swimming pool the night before with my very expensive phone in my pocket. Sigh…. I took a solid walk of shame across the island, and then had a long sleep to recover from my debauchery.

Julie had been soaking up the great company, and enjoyed herself immensely, but the road had come calling.  I can’t say enough about Gili T, so will leave it at these few words. It’s a must see, and I think I could pass a couple months here just relaxing.

The next stop is a quick pass through Legian on Bali again, as Julie has the surfing bug, and that is the easiest place to scratch the itch.

Peace out.

Posted on

One Night In Senggigi

Welcome back,

Our great time in Toraja had come to an end, and we had booked some tight travel plans to make our escape.  We choose to do an overnight travel bus to cover the wild, 8+ hour drive back to Makassar, where we would fly out then next morning to Lombok. The goal being to make it to Gili Trawangan, a tropical paradise I had loved 4 years ago.

Night buses in SE Asia can be a bit of a nightmare for tall folks like myself, however, the Toraja version was like a floating castle.  Huge amounts of space, the most comfortable seats I’ve ever seen, and a nice temperature, Julie and I were actually a bit giddy when we got on at 9:30.  Not to have overlooked every detail however, the driver cranked Indonesian love songs until about midnight.  Pretty classic, who doesn’t want to fall asleep to cracking speakers, with arguably some of the worst music on the planet. But I digress.


The ride ripped by, and before we knew it, we were at the airport. No literally, it was a bit before we knew it, and shuffled off the bus quite sleepy and confused. They had made great time, and we were a couple hours early. This meant a few hours sleeping on the Makassar airport floor, but so be it.

The flight was great, and we landed in Lombok. Lombok is the beautiful little island just east of Bali, and has tried to compete in recent years for tourism. The crowning jewels being the Gili islands where we were headed the next day, and the beast volcano Mt. Rinjani.  Our trip was just a pass through, and a night in the little port town of Senggigi was necessary.


It is low season here, and in Lombok, well, that means desperate locals trying to sell you stuff and rip you off on prices. Lombok has had the taste of tourism, and it has felt both times to me like it hasn’t quite made it, and frustratingly tries to be the Bali without capturing the true spirit. I would like to visit in high season to compare but for now, it has a strange vibe.  The natural beauty however is awe inspiring.  Lush green shades of jungle, with high up ocean views do make this a lovely place to see.

Indonesia is predominantly Muslim, and nothing makes you more aware that you ain’t in Kansas anymore like the regular call to prayer played over the loud speaker from the Mosque. A haunting sound booming across the land.  We didn’t hear this in Toraja, as the local population is a hybrid of Christian and Torajan local religions.

After 17 hours of travel, our ride from the airport was dragged a bit longer by our driver eagerly wanting to show us some cool local weaving, just along the way. Well, not really along the way, but you know after 17 hours, whats another 30 minutes of locals peddling some of their wares. Julie kicked in some cash to the local economy and bought a nice hand made ( we think… ) scarf.  I asserted after this to please take us to our hotel, and he obliged.

We had a giant villa basically to ourselves for the evening. Filled with ocean views, a giant restaurant to serve just us, and a beauty pool to chill by. And chill we did. A few swims, and many drinks later we had managed to unwind, and also practice some hula hooping.  We booked our boat the next morning for Gili T, and hit the hay after some laughs at our luxury.

See you in Gili T.

Posted on

Paying Tribute to the Dead

Our adventures continued the next day in Toraja with Arru picking us up at 8:30 am. We stopped by the grocery store to pick up some cigarettes and candy which we would offer to our gracious hosts whom were hosting the day’s funeral ceremony.

Our first stop however, was the beautiful village of Ke’te Kesu. It is the home of some of the oldest traditional houses, some dating back 700 years.  It was also Arru’s home village so he was happy to show us around.  A major site here, are the ancient hanging graves.  A stunning site, the Torajan’s of old used to bury the bones of their dead in ceremonial wooden coffins, and then hang them up high on the side of a rock face to protect them from thieves and other critters which might have interest in them. One coffin would house the bones of an entire family. In old times they would keep the body at home as a mummy until it was reduced to a skeleton. At this time the bones would be deposited into the family grave box. Wild rituals. The site was filled with many coffins, with many visible bones.  At the top of a long stair case was a dark cave housing many coffins, and still being used by the villages. It was a strange feeling in there, and the site of newer coffins really struck home the fact that this is a resting place for the dead.  However, it did possess a strong natural beauty, and the emotion you feel quite possibly reflecting your thoughts on our final resting place.

After this it was time to head to the funeral. I was a bit anxious as we arrived but the hosts made us feel welcome immediately.  The event was for a lady who had passed away 9 months earlier, at the age of 69, almost the exact age and time of death of my own mother. This really hit home for me, and was a unique experience to say the least, to compare the rituals we humans share in regards to death.  The ceremony may have been elaborate, but at the root, we all feel the same deep sorrow and loss, we are all human beings, no matter where we live or how we are raised.

Temporary structures are built to house the guests that arrive, and many bring pigs or buffaloes to be slaughtered. The hosts serve sweets and coffee/tea to us, and offer us cigarettes, palm wine and betel nuts ( beware.. ).  After some socializing, the family’s close guests arrive in a ceremonial procession, and are taken to a special sitting area where they are served by the host family.  The hosts are marched out to a mournful singing, and slowly greet their guests. They are all wearing beautiful clothing to suit the importance of the occasion.  In the open square is he coffin of the deceased, which will be carried to a higher platform at noon, signifying the setting of the sun, and the end of life.  After this time, one buffalo will be slaughtered to bring the end of the first day of the funeral.

The atmosphere was powerful, first however, as they brought all of the donation pigs down the open square in front of the family and the coffin. The pigs were squirming and squealing in the heat, and would soon be meeting their maker.  Julie and I were unsure how we would feel about the animal sacrifice, but I felt like a hypocrite to judge, as I’m an avid meat eater, and so far these animals had been treated better than any North American farm animal.  Perhaps a good time to reflect on my eating habits.  It was an intense scene as they pulled the pigs away, knowing they were about to die.  The were casually killed and prepared to be butchered so the meat could be distributed to the families in the village.  As we passed from one area to the next, without much warning, we observed a slaughter. A man stabbed a pig in the heart, and he spurted out to his death. It was very hard to watch, but am glad I did. I believe too many of us think of our meat as a faceless commodity, and all meat eaters should understand where it comes from.

High noon had come, and the family carried the coffin on their shoulders to a higher platform to finally begin the next phase of the ceremony.  A large water buffalo was soon marched into the square, and tied to a post.  The thin veil between life and death was dangling before us as we awaited what was about to take place.  The buffalo’s throat was cut by a machete, and the giant beast bled out, while bucking for it’s life. An indescribable sight, we watched in awe. Another tourist at the event fainted at the gruesome scene.  I will spare the details, but it was a powerful image that would flash through my mind for the next while along with that of the pig. The local butchers quickly descended on the animal and soon the skin would be sent to a leather maker, and the meat quickly cut into it’s pieces.  Again a reminder how we use animals in our everyday so casually without giving much thought to what has really taken place.

This description really does no justice to how amazing an experience this was. We were honored to be welcomed to such a personal event, and share in their long standing customs.

We rounded out the day with some more stunning grave viewings, and taking in the scenery before heading back to our hotel. That night we would head out on a night bus back to Makassar, flying out in the morning to Lombok to beging the next stop.  Toraja made a huge imprint on both Julie and I with it’s stunning natural scenes, and even more stunning culture.

See you in Lombok!

Posted on

Funerals, Graves and Effigies

Greetings friends,

When we last spoke, the journey had taken us to the lesser known Indonesian island of Sulawesi. A wild looking island, it has some fascinating travel destinations, the most well known being the strange land of Tana Toraja.

Buried in the southern highlands of Sulawesi, Tana Toraja is a sociologist/anthropologists wet dream. The Torajan people are known for the their deep respect for the dead.  They commit great resources to preparing for the most important event in the Torajan culture, the funeral.  At first it may sound like a strange tourist trap gone horribly wrong, but it is a beautiful authentic land.  The Torajan’s openly welcome travelers to join them in the elaborate funeral ceremonies. Sometimes lasting as long as 5 days in length, the ceremonies are a dramatic display of heart warming, welcoming spirit, and possibly most known for a large amount of animal sacrifice. Pigs and Buffaloes are slaughtered as a tribute to the dead.  The social class of the dead determining the number of animals to be slaughtered with as many as 40+ buffaloes for the highest ranking people.  The animals are immediately butchered and skinned, and distributed to the families of the village.


A more macabre feature of the the belief system is that of keeping the body of the dead in the family home as a “sick” person, until the family can afford to give a proper ceremony. In older days, this could be many years, but modern times it ranges from a few months to a year.  A bit strange to others, the Torajan’s have such a deep respect for their loved ones, they feel they are caring for them until they can give them a proper send off.

The land itself is possibly the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen. A lush display of jungle, mountains, terraced rice fields, and the stunning unique architecture of the traditional Torajan homes make every second in this special place a visceral experience. Words and photos truly don’t come close to doing it justice.

We arrived in the southern gateway city, Makassar, on an early flight from Bali.  Not keen on messing around finding buses and local transport, I had booked a private car to take the long drive to Toraja.  We quickly found our driver, and in relative, air conditioned comfort, we were off on what was expected to be an 8 hour drive.  Our driver didn’t speak much English but did his best, and in true Asian adventure style, should also consider applying to the formula one circuit, as his driving skills were wild, aggressive and skilled.   Once into the mountains, the views were stunning, the roads a bit treacherous, and the constant driving on the other side of the road something to adjust to.  8 hours later we had safely arrived at our destination, Hotel Pison, in the town of Rantepao, the standard jumping off point in Toraja.

That night we met up with a local guide named Arru who was recommended on many trip advisor reports.  Our goal was to spend some time seeing the sites, and to take in a local funeral ceremony.  We were in luck, and despite it being down season, there was a ceremony in two days time.  A 2 day plan was laid out with Arru and a driver, and after some grub, we hit the hay early after an exhausting day of travel.

The first day began at 9 am, and our first stop was the local market. We had just missed the large version of this the day before but some action still remained. The Rantepao market is mostly used for buying and selling Pigs and Buffalos.  The Buffalo being a revered figure in the local culture.  They are the heart of the ceremonial sacrifice.  The rare albino version can sell for as much as $10000, and Arru jokingly referred to him as the ferrari buffalo. Locals were busy that day buying pigs for the funeral we would attend the next day.  It is a standard tribute for the guests to bring an animal donation of some kind, either a buffalo or pig, to be slaughtered in tribute to the dead.  Poor piggies were nearing the end.

After the market, and a stunning drive through the countryside, our next visit was to see the stone graves.  Although it sounds like a creepy, disrespectful tourist operation, the Torajans take great pride in their belief system, and enjoy sharing it with visitors.  The stone graves are visually stunning.  The families carve by hand deep caves out of solid rock, to be used as the burial site for the family. Many bodies are placed into this grave until it is eventually full.  The door is sealed with a decorative door.  Many graves can be found in the same large rock faces, making for a strangely beautiful site. Some of the stone graves go back a couple hundred years.  Shocking at first, the bones of the dead are openly visible in some graves, as the doors are in mid replacement.  Apprehensive to view this place, Arru assured us it is ok, and not disrespectful to take in these sites.  That being said, taking photos of piles of human skulls is a bit unnerving experience…

Next up was the even more strangely named site of “Baby Graves”.  We hiked up the mountainside to a large tree, with markings sealed over, moving up the trunk.  Not practiced anymore, the old culture would bury any baby who did not yet have teeth, in the trunks of these trees. As a symbol of sending the baby to a new mother, they thought of the tree and its sap as the mother for the baby to take it to the next life. A somber site indeed, and a reminder that infant mortality rates have declined greatly with modern medicine.

After this fascinating site, we headed to a traditional village.  The old homes date back as far as 700 years, and have a beautiful style. The roof tops looking like massive boats, built on top of a 3 room structure. Mounted on the front of the building are columns of buffalo horns, representative of the buffaloes slaughtered in the families funerals, and the more there are the higher status the family. We had a look inside one of these beautiful buildings, grabbed a couple necklaces to support the local economy and then set out again.

The next stop was about a 45 minute drive away up the nearest mountain to the community of Bututumonga.  The views were breath taking.  Never ending terraced rice fields, beautiful houses buried in the horizon.  Again words and photos don’t do it justice.  We had lunch at the mountain top, and relaxed to a soothing afternoon rain.  Soon later, we took a beautiful walk down through the rice fields and passing through a local village. It was a great way to decompress after some of the intense sights we had seen.

This would wind out the day, and we went home to relax and prepare for the ceremony the next morning.

Till then…

Posted on

Surf, Sand, and Sun

Hey Dudes and Dudettes,

We continue things in an easy going lifestyle in Bali.  After our first day of lounging ( and burning ),  we were eager to get ourselves moving.  The activity of choice was surfing!  The Kuta/Legian area is a fabulous beach for beginners. Big, yet forgiving swells, with an all sand bottom to cushion your fall.  There are no shortage of beach options too, with all the locals set up with their own little business of selling comfy chairs, surf boards and cold beers.  Being low season, it didn’t take us long to find a new friend named Bego.  We negotiated an acceptable rate for 2 boards, a one hour lesson for Julie, and some umbrella space for staying out of the sun.

Surfer Dude

Julie kicked some ass, and actually was up on her feet on her first run.  A remarkable feat I say! I floundered around on my own, and after a couple hard crashes into the sand on my burn, I took to the beach to watch Julie’s skills improve from afar.

After hanging ten for a while longer, and a couple Bintangs in the sun to celebrate, we took it easy for the rest of the day.  We queued up 2 scuba dives for the following morning however, as we were both excited to get under the ocean as well as on top of it.  I was tuckered from my burn and slept away the evening, while Julie did a little shopping and ordered some hand made leather garments from a local vendor.

The next morning we woke early, as our driver was picking us up at 7 am for our first day of diving!  Again, due to low season, it was just the 2 of us and our dive master.  The site, Padang Bai, was a 1.5 hour drive and as we rolled in I remembered it clearly as the jump off point for fast boats to Gili T ( a fav spot of mine from 4 years ago ).  We chilled in the local restaurant while they assembled our gear, and after a refresher test we were on a small boat heading out.

Our first dive went smoothly, a there and back cruise along the reef wall at a depth of 6-20 meters.  It was a nice dive to get our comfort levels back up, and see a little bit of sea life.  The water temp was 28 and the visibility was about 15 meters so conditions were great.   The next would be much more interesting.

With both of us now eased back into our skills, the next dive was to take us a bit deeper across a lagoon, where the boat would meet us.  The first point of interest was a small sunken boat!  I had never done a wreck dive ( not calling this a wreck but… ), so it was very cool to float along side this lovely little vessel.  I’d forgotten how serene and otherworldly it is to just float weightless underwater, temporarily sharing existence with the tropical life usually only seen through a camera lens.  A few interesting fish later, we had an encounter with cranky fella. He was quite a large fish, perhaps 1.5 feet long, 1 foot high, and he decided Julie was the enemy.  He followed us lunging at her fins, nipping away! Wow, what a jerk!  We did manage to scare him off, but a sobering reality as to who owns this world. Clue, it is not us.

We completed that lovely adventure, and feeling quite satisfied, headed back to our home base to plot the next one.   It was decided to take a walk on the beach and browse the ocean side offerings.  We strolled on the sand, sipping beers care free as can be. A happening new venue, called Potato Head Beach Club was recommended, and I had seen a photo from a friend of this place, so we made our way. It is a stunning restaurant and bar with an infinity pool, and an incredible view.  The sunset was magnificent.  We indulged a bit, as the drinks were fancy and expensive, but delicious, as was the food.  It was a pretty perfect day in paradise.

The next day we awoke with another craving for the beach, and a mild hangover.  Our surf buddy who gave Julie the lesson was happy to rent us a board, and give us some shade. I toughened up and even went for a barefoot 6 km run on the sand to kick start my body. After we clearly needed another massage.  Comically, we found our way to a suspect operation in an alley way, perhaps in a back room of somebody’s home.  We received the classic 4 handed massage, but were constantly up sold on mani/pedicures etc.  It was a decent massage but we shall not return.

This would be our last day on Bali for now, as we were bracing for a cultural extravaganza in Tana Toraja, on the island of Sula-what, sula-where?  Sulawesi.

Till next time.