Greetings friends,
When we last spoke, the journey had taken us to the lesser known Indonesian island of Sulawesi. A wild looking island, it has some fascinating travel destinations, the most well known being the strange land of Tana Toraja.
Buried in the southern highlands of Sulawesi, Tana Toraja is a sociologist/anthropologists wet dream. The Torajan people are known for the their deep respect for the dead. They commit great resources to preparing for the most important event in the Torajan culture, the funeral. At first it may sound like a strange tourist trap gone horribly wrong, but it is a beautiful authentic land. The Torajan’s openly welcome travelers to join them in the elaborate funeral ceremonies. Sometimes lasting as long as 5 days in length, the ceremonies are a dramatic display of heart warming, welcoming spirit, and possibly most known for a large amount of animal sacrifice. Pigs and Buffaloes are slaughtered as a tribute to the dead. The social class of the dead determining the number of animals to be slaughtered with as many as 40+ buffaloes for the highest ranking people. The animals are immediately butchered and skinned, and distributed to the families of the village.

A more macabre feature of the the belief system is that of keeping the body of the dead in the family home as a “sick” person, until the family can afford to give a proper ceremony. In older days, this could be many years, but modern times it ranges from a few months to a year. A bit strange to others, the Torajan’s have such a deep respect for their loved ones, they feel they are caring for them until they can give them a proper send off.
The land itself is possibly the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen. A lush display of jungle, mountains, terraced rice fields, and the stunning unique architecture of the traditional Torajan homes make every second in this special place a visceral experience. Words and photos truly don’t come close to doing it justice.

We arrived in the southern gateway city, Makassar, on an early flight from Bali. Not keen on messing around finding buses and local transport, I had booked a private car to take the long drive to Toraja. We quickly found our driver, and in relative, air conditioned comfort, we were off on what was expected to be an 8 hour drive. Our driver didn’t speak much English but did his best, and in true Asian adventure style, should also consider applying to the formula one circuit, as his driving skills were wild, aggressive and skilled. Once into the mountains, the views were stunning, the roads a bit treacherous, and the constant driving on the other side of the road something to adjust to. 8 hours later we had safely arrived at our destination, Hotel Pison, in the town of Rantepao, the standard jumping off point in Toraja.

That night we met up with a local guide named Arru who was recommended on many trip advisor reports. Our goal was to spend some time seeing the sites, and to take in a local funeral ceremony. We were in luck, and despite it being down season, there was a ceremony in two days time. A 2 day plan was laid out with Arru and a driver, and after some grub, we hit the hay early after an exhausting day of travel.
The first day began at 9 am, and our first stop was the local market. We had just missed the large version of this the day before but some action still remained. The Rantepao market is mostly used for buying and selling Pigs and Buffalos. The Buffalo being a revered figure in the local culture. They are the heart of the ceremonial sacrifice. The rare albino version can sell for as much as $10000, and Arru jokingly referred to him as the ferrari buffalo. Locals were busy that day buying pigs for the funeral we would attend the next day. It is a standard tribute for the guests to bring an animal donation of some kind, either a buffalo or pig, to be slaughtered in tribute to the dead. Poor piggies were nearing the end.
After the market, and a stunning drive through the countryside, our next visit was to see the stone graves. Although it sounds like a creepy, disrespectful tourist operation, the Torajans take great pride in their belief system, and enjoy sharing it with visitors. The stone graves are visually stunning. The families carve by hand deep caves out of solid rock, to be used as the burial site for the family. Many bodies are placed into this grave until it is eventually full. The door is sealed with a decorative door. Many graves can be found in the same large rock faces, making for a strangely beautiful site. Some of the stone graves go back a couple hundred years. Shocking at first, the bones of the dead are openly visible in some graves, as the doors are in mid replacement. Apprehensive to view this place, Arru assured us it is ok, and not disrespectful to take in these sites. That being said, taking photos of piles of human skulls is a bit unnerving experience…
Next up was the even more strangely named site of “Baby Graves”. We hiked up the mountainside to a large tree, with markings sealed over, moving up the trunk. Not practiced anymore, the old culture would bury any baby who did not yet have teeth, in the trunks of these trees. As a symbol of sending the baby to a new mother, they thought of the tree and its sap as the mother for the baby to take it to the next life. A somber site indeed, and a reminder that infant mortality rates have declined greatly with modern medicine.
After this fascinating site, we headed to a traditional village. The old homes date back as far as 700 years, and have a beautiful style. The roof tops looking like massive boats, built on top of a 3 room structure. Mounted on the front of the building are columns of buffalo horns, representative of the buffaloes slaughtered in the families funerals, and the more there are the higher status the family. We had a look inside one of these beautiful buildings, grabbed a couple necklaces to support the local economy and then set out again.
The next stop was about a 45 minute drive away up the nearest mountain to the community of Bututumonga. The views were breath taking. Never ending terraced rice fields, beautiful houses buried in the horizon. Again words and photos don’t do it justice. We had lunch at the mountain top, and relaxed to a soothing afternoon rain. Soon later, we took a beautiful walk down through the rice fields and passing through a local village. It was a great way to decompress after some of the intense sights we had seen.
This would wind out the day, and we went home to relax and prepare for the ceremony the next morning.
Till then…